Marled Magic Sweater & Dress

Learn to knit Two-Color Brioche with my free YouTube video here!

Use the modification notes at the bottom of this listing in combination with the original pattern if you would like to alter this sweater into a drapey cardigan.

Note: This listing is not for physical samples. It only includes the PDF instructions to knit this pattern

Languages:

English

Danish

French

German

Italian

Japanese

Sizes: Small (Large)

Sizes are achieved with different gauges.

Knit the longer dress version (shown with dark blue sleeves) by picking up stitches around the bottom edge and knitting mesh so it can be as long as you want.

Finished Measurements: 28 (30)“ / 72 (76)cm long from top neck to bottom back, 20 (21)” / 51 (53)cm neck circumference, 54 (72)“ / 137 (183)cm wingspan from cuff to cuff, 71 (86)” / 180 (218)cm hip circumference. This garment is designed to fit with super generous positive ease.

Cuff length for the sleeves is customizable so the total wingspan could be 49 (62)“ / 125 (157)cm if you only add 1” / 2.5cm cuffs instead of the longer ribbed cuffs (shown in orange for the sweater and dark blue for the dress), 18” / 46cm from neckline to bottom front measured along the front center striped panel.

Dress version (sample with dark blue neckline and cuffs) measures 28” / 71cm along center striped panel from neckline to bottom front edge & 44” / 112cm along center back from neckline to bottom back edge.

Yarn: Sport or DK DK or Worsted weight.

Always hold two strands of yarn together to achieve the marled effect like the sample garments.

Small Size

Hold 1 strand of fingering weight together with 1 strand of lace weight or hold 2 strands of lace weight together to achieve the smaller size.

Large Size

Hold 2 strands of fingering weight together or hold 1 strand of fingering weight and 1 strand of lace weight mohair together for the larger size.

Using lace weight mohair helps add a lighter lofty feel to the fabric. If you use entirely superwash fingering weight wools, the overall fabric will be a bit heavier and may stretch over time. I recommend mixing in mohair to your palette OR combine your superwash wools with some non-superwash yarns like Brooklyn Tweed LOFT to give a bit more structure to the garment.

Yardage: The Sweater version uses approximately 800g using fingering weight and lace weight mohair. The dress uses approximately 950g. I recommend have a large collection of yarns to choose from. Gather at least 1500g of yarn to choose from so you have a wide array of color choices.

Shown in: A variety of fingering and lace weight yarns. I used mostly Hedgehog Fibres Sock, Skinny Singles,Sporty Merino, and Kidsilk lace for my samples. I also sussed some paper, cotton, and silk yarns from Habu for the sweater version with orange edges.

Needles: 2 pairs of 40” US 6 (8) / 4 (5)mm circular.

40” US 5 (7) / 3.75 (4.5)mm circular for cuffs and collar.

Notions: Tapestry needle, spare circular needle for holding stitches.

Gauge: Large Size

20 sts & 40 rows = 4” / 10cm in garter stitch

Small Size

23 sts & 48 rows = 4” / 10cm in garter stitch

Standard Marl

Hold 2 strands of yarn together. Maintain these colors for the entire section.

Steady Marl

Hold 2 stands of yarn together. Always keep 1 strand the same color. Only stripe the second strand of yarn.

Fading Marl

Hold 2 strands of yarn together. Only change 1 strand at a time, but you can substitute colors with either strand of yarn at anytime. Blend and fade your colors together.

Errata (Corrected in Current PDF version):

Abbreviation Definition: P2tog - purl two stitches together.

SECTION 2

Repeat last 4 rows 28 more times, then repeat Rows 1 & 2 once more. There should be 60 selvedge stitches on each edge and 67 total sts.

If you are doing the seed stitch version in SECTION 3, it should read…

Seed Stitch Version

Always hold 2 strands of yarn together.

Row 1 (RS): K2, (p1, k1) to last st, sl1 wyif.

Row 2 (WS): K1, k2tog, (k1, p1) to last 2 sts, k1, sl1 wyif.

Row 3 (RS): K2, (p1, k1) to last 2 sts, p1, sl1 wyif.

Row 4 (WS): K1, k2tog, (p1, k1) to last st, sl1 wyif.

Repeat last 4 rows 30 more times. 5 sts remain.

Next Row (RS): K2, p1, k1, sl1 wyif.

Next Row (WS): K1, k2tog, k1, sl1 wyif. 4 sts.

Next Row (RS): K2, p1, sl1 wyif.

Next Row (WS): K1, k2tog, sl1 wyif. Break yarn and pull it through the remaining 3 sts.

Continue to SECTION 4.

Section 4 (at the end of this section) should read, “Next Row (RS): Sl1 wyif, k all sts while closing the short row gaps. Break yarn and slide stitches to the other end of circular needle.”

SECTION 11 should read: “Repeat last 4 rows 17 more times.” instead of repeat last 4 rows 35 more times. This repeat will attach this new seed stitch section to all of the SECTION 8 selvedge stitches.

Sections 12 & 13 color notes should read: Color: I recommend doing a Standard Marl for this garter stitch section.

Section 14 Row 8 (WS): K32, turn to work RS.

Bottom Edge Pick Up should read: “K108 sts from SECTION 14 back garter stitch panel.”

Errata for WKBK2 print version only:

SECTION 10 Brioche Rows 4 and 6: k1, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last stitch, sl1wyif.

English PDF corrected with these errata notes August 16, 2018.

Modifications

No ribbed cuffs. After picking up for the sleeve cuffs, immediately work an I-cord bind off for a more simple clean effect.

All of the other sections were knitted exactly as written except SECTION 6…

SECTION 6 (front striped panels)

Row 3 (RS): K to last st, sl1 wyif.

Row 4 (WS): K to last 3 sts, k2tog, sl1 wyif.

Repeat last 2 rows 14 more times while working two rows with each color for stripes. 64 sts. There should be 16 garter ridges. Continue working the striped left front like this…

Once you decrease down to 64 sts, work 88 rows (44 garter ridges) in plain garter stitch while continuing to slip the last st of each row. There should now be 60 total garter ridges. Break yarn and place the 64 sts onto waste yarn.

CO 64 sts. You will pick up from this edge at the end for the I-cord border so if you prefer to work a provisional cast on, that may be helpful. Otherwise, just use a long tail cast on and you can pick up from this cast on edge later.

Right Front

Work 88 rows (44 garter ridges) in garter stitch stripes.

On the next RS row, continue working SECTION 6 from Row 33 onward. With this extended front section, it won’t technically be your 33rd row, but just continue with rows 33 & 34 after you have 44 garter ridges. You will repeat Rows 33 & 34 15 more times as instructed in the pattern, resulting in 80 sts.

Now, you will have an open cardigan! Follow the remaining sections as written.

I-cord edge

Instead of working the Collar instructions, just pick up sts around the entire edge of the sweater as pictured and work an I-cord bind off.